Category: Travel

  • What I Packed for Mongolia in Late Autumn (and What I’d Change)

    I travelled to western Mongolia from 26 September to 8 October 2026, right as the Altai gets cold. Between a 25-hour bus ride, homestay nights in a sleeping bag, and an open trip that told me to pack in a carrier instead of a suitcase, I had to pack warm and light. The limits were 25 kg on Singapore Airlines and 20 kg on MIAT. I left Jakarta with 16 kg and came home with 12 kg.

    How cold was it, really?

    The coldest it got was about 5°C. It never went below zero, and there was no snow. The cold that people warn you about is the wind. On a calm moment 5°C is fine, but with wind on the open steppe it felt far colder than the number.

    Clothes

    • Three Heattech tops
    • Two Heattech leggings
    • One Jeans
    • Two usual pants
    • Two outer shirts (yellow, blue floral)
    • One sleeping outfit
    • Underwear
    • Uniqlo puff jacket
    • Raincoat (serious one, from Eiger).

    Layers of Heattech and thermal were enough for me, and the clothes and pants I packed were enough for the whole trip.

    When it’s very windy, I use both the puff jacket and the raincoat, with gloves, beanies, and neck warmer. And I did survived.

    Feet and accessories

    • Three pairs of Heattech socks
    • Pashmina, gloves, and a neck warmer
    • Two beanies
    • A crossbody bag for sightseeing

    The gloves, beanies and the neck warmer did the most work against the wind.

    Toiletries

    • Shampoo and conditioner, bar soap, 12 sachets of detergent
    • A washcloth (waslap) and a travel towel
    • Toothbrush and toothpaste
    • Dry and wet tissues
    • Sunscreen, lip balm, and night cream
    • A waterproof bag for wet items
    • Perfume and deodorant

    During the two days in the Altai (30 September and 1 October), I didn’t shower at all. There was no water at all, and it was so cold that nobody noticed. If you’re going to a homestay out there, accept that now.

    Medicine and supplements

    • Throat lozenges FG Troche, cough medicine, Tolak Angin (10 sachets)
    • One strip of cold medicine and one strip of motion-sickness tablets
    • Omega 3, magnesium, glucosamine, and vitamin C
    • Mouth tape for sleeping
    • My regular prescription medication

    This is where I was short. The dust in the Altai is something else, and I came home with a cold and a cough (no fever). I wish I had packed more cough medicine and cold tablets. I am ok during the bus trip though, no motion sickness.

    Food from home

    • Abon (shredded meat floss) and serundeng (spiced coconut)
    • Energen vanilla cereal
    • Ketchup and pepper

    Next time I’ll bring something tastier. Boneless milkfish (bandeng presto) is my current idea. Hahaha.

    Electronics and everything else

    • International plug adapter and an extension cord with a T-plug
    • Sleeping bag
    • Headlamp
    • Rubber bands, seven ziplock bags, pen, and a notebook

    What I’d change

    1. Bring a suitcase. The open trip advised a carrier, and I packed to the limit, but with the road trip done by car I would happily take a suitcase next time.
    2. Pack more cough medicine and cold tablets. The dust is no joke.
    3. Skip the coat.
    4. Bring better food from home. I don’t quite like the food. Only meat, no vegetables, no pork. And tend to be cold. (from not a picky eater)

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  • Getting to the Altai: Jakarta, Beijing, Ulaanbaatar, and a 25 hours Bus Trip

    The Altai mountains in western Mongolia are a long way from the Mongolian capital, and I had no idea how to get there. The routes I read about were confusing, so I joined an open trip. It was organised by Rani (@rantje on Instagram), and it was a good decision for a first timer in Mongolia. Here is how the journey went, step by step.

    Why an open trip

    The hard part of Mongolia is not the sightseeing but the transport from Ulaanbaatar to Bayan Olgii. The yearly Golden Eagle Festival is a high season where all of the domestic flights can be sold out. When this happens, either we rent a car or take a bus to go the Altai Mountains. Joining a group meant someone else had already worked out the connections.

    What it cost

    I paid a total of IDR 23 million to Rani. That figure includes the Beijing to Ulaanbaatar flight on MIAT, which cost about IDR 6 million by itself. It also includes lodging, transport, guides, and festival tickets. Food is with ourselves, either we eat local food, or bring Indonesian dried foods that is more taste friendly to us. Please note that this is a very very cheap version of this trip since we are staying at local houses and even brought our own sleeping bag.

    How much do other Golden Eagle Festival tours cost?

    Operator and tourPrice per personApprox. IDRWhat the listing saysSource
    Discover Altai, 7 days (1-7 Oct 2026)from USD 99016 millionFestival tickets and a stay with an eagle hunter’s family are included; international airfare is notLink
    Discover Altai, 4 days (from 2 Oct 2026)from USD 1,400 (4+ people)23 millionHomestay with an eagle hunter’s family, 4×4 transportLink
    View Mongolia, 5 days (2-6 Oct 2026)USD 1,71028 millionGroup departureLink
    Discover Altai, 8 days (28 Sep-5 Oct 2026)USD 2,300 (join the group)38 millionTwo full festival days, visits to hunting familiesLink
    Tour2Mongolia, 7 days (2026)USD 2,490 for 2 people, USD 2,200 for 341 million (36 million)Includes Terelj National Park; excess baggage charged on domestic flightsLink
    Selena Travel, 7 days (2025 listing)from USD 2,55042 millionReturn Olgii-Ulaanbaatar flight with 15 kg baggage includedLink
    BTTC Travel, 8 daysUSD 3,85064 millionFlights to and from Ulgii, full board, English-speaking guideLink
    Mudita Adventures, 8 daysfrom USD 3,99966 millionUlaanbaatar to Altai Tavan Bogd National ParkLink
    Exodus, 17 days (6 Oct 2026 departure)USD 7,350 (land only)121 millionCombines the steppe, Gobi, and the festivalLink
    Abercrombie & Kent, 12 days (30 Sep-11 Oct 2026)USD 23,995396 millionLuxury, guaranteed departureLink

    My own flights were extra. I booked Jakarta to Beijing on Singapore Airlines a year ahead and paid about IDR 7 million.

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  • Why Mongolia ? Blame Kwee Ceng

    I didn’t go to Mongolia because of a travel list. I went because of a book my father bought me when I was a child.

    He found it at Kramat, in an Ejaan Lama (old spelling) book, the kind where the “j” is still “dj”. 1

    The title was Sia Tiauw Eng Hiong, which most of the world now knows as The Legend of the Condor Heroes, by Louis Cha (Chin Yung). The names in my copy were in Hokkien, so the hero was Kwee Ceng, not Guo Jing as he is in Mandarin. To me he will always be Kwee Ceng.2

    A boy raised on the steppe

    In the novel, Kwee Ceng grows up in Mongolia from early childhood into his teens, living with his mother in a yurt. He becomes sworn brother (anda) to Tolui, the son of Genghis Khan and the future father of Kublai Khan.3 Genghis Khan promises Kwee Ceng in marriage to his daughter, Gochin/Huazheng. I read those chapters over and over, and I imagined a huge sky, endless grass, and a life that moved with the seasons.

    Betamax from Jatinegara

    Later came the 1980s TV series, on rented Betamax tapes from a shop in Jatinegara. Wong Yat Wa played Kwee Ceng, and the late Ang Mei Ling played Oey Yong.

    I think the above is the best version of LoCH, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Legend_of_the_Condor_Heroes_(1983_TV_series)

    Why the festival felt familiar

    The novel’s title means “shooting the eagle,” from the scene where Kwee Ceng brings down two great birds with a single arrow. Decades later I stood at the Golden Eagle Festival in Bayan Olgii, where nobody shoots eagles. The hunters ride out with eagles on their arms. It is the same drama, in reverse. I also thought of the white eagles that Kwee Ceng and Gochin keep in the story.

    In every version of the series, there will be Kwee Ceng pose with arrow.

    This is Hu Ge version. (2008):

    Ci Sa version (2026):

    What is real and what is not

    Because this blog will mix history and fiction, I’ll mark the line clearly in every post.

    • Real: Genghis Khan, Tolui, and Kublai Khan, plus the world of the Mongol tribes and the campaigns to the west.
    • Invented by Louis Cha: Kwee Ceng himself, Gochin, and the friendship and romance that hold the story together.
    • One more caution: the eagle hunters in Bayan Olgii are mostly ethnic Kazakh, not Mongol. Hunting with eagles is a Kazakh Altai tradition.

    What’s coming

    Next, I’ll write about my adventures in Mongolia between 26 September and 8 October 2026. The story starts with the road from Jakarta to Ulaanbaatar and the long bus ride to Bayan Olgii. After that come the eagle hunter family in Tsengel, the Altai mountains, the Golden Eagle Festival, and finally Ulaanbaatar, with museums and all.

    If you have ever read these books or watched the series, tell me which one stayed with you the most.

    1. ↩︎
    2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Legend_of_the_Condor_Heroes ↩︎
    3. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genghis_Khan ↩︎

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